Saturday, September 20, 2014

How to Curl Difficult Hair and Make it Last!

Many people have commented on my daughter's Halloween picture.  She wanted a curly style to embody the goddess Athena to bring softness and beauty to the powerful goddess of war strategy and intelligence.

My daughter has the trifecta of difficult hair:  stick straight, long, and heavy.  Simply curling her hair is not effective.  The curl just drops out as if I'd never even tried!  Even professional irons won't help much.

So how do you get hair like this to maintain curl?

First, we put her hair in hot rollers and let them sit in for a good 20-30 minutes.  I had already put a light styling product in to help it set.

Next, once the rollers were cooled, I took them out and set her hair in barrel curls.  I made sure to pile them on top of her head with bobby pins to make it as comfortable as possible to sleep.  Then I wrapped her head to keep the curls safe.

The next morning, we took out the curls.  And here's the important part:  do not brush the curls!  I simply ran my fingers through them to separate.

The last step was taking a 3/4 inch curling iron and curling any strands that needed it.  I also made sure to take tiny strands around her face and the top *layer* of hair (her hair is not actually layered) to add more curl and make it appear as though she had long layers.   I then poked the gilded leaves with hair pins and smoothed back the bang area with heavy duty pins.  Once it was secured, I stuck the leaves in.

To plaster those curls in place, I finished with a strong, fast-drying spray to hold those curls in place.

When dealing with difficult hair that is shorter and/or layered, I often skip one of the curling phases.  For example, today's homecoming client wanted curls, but knew big curls would drop out of her hair too quickly.  So in her case, I curled small sections and immediately pinned them to her head.  When done, I sprayed her head all over with a light, but potent working hairspray.  I let them sit to cool 10 minutes, then took them out.  I styled the hair, but as I went, I hit certain areas again with my 3/4 inch curling iron.  Here she gets the big curl look, but one that should be sustainable with the extra structural work.

Nothing's more fun than updos!  It's like jewelry for the hair!  Just make sure you charge well for your hard work!

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